Chiacchiere di vino, musica e cucina/Slowfood

Uno spazio in cui leggere in anteprima e dibattere gli articoli della rivista italiana di Slow Food: osterie e locande d'Italia, recensioni, Presìdi, inchieste, desco music, itinerari del vino e dell'olio, balloons, biodiversità, Comunità del cibo, degustazioni, cultura alimentare…

1/10/2007

Gli anni del fermento (di Luca Giaccone)

Un articolo della sezione A TUTTA BIRRA di Slowfood 23, che trovate qui.


L’Italia non ha mai avuto una grande tradizione birraria: soltanto il nord del paese ha subìto qualche influenza dall’impero austro-ungarico, con la presenza di un discreto numero di birrifici, ormai quasi tutti chiusi. Con i suoi 29,6 litri di consumo annuo pro capite l’Italia occupa l’ultimo posto della classifica europea, surclassata dai 160 litri della Repubblica Ceca, dai 115 della Germania o dai 93 del Belgio, ma superata anche, e di parecchio, dai 40 della Grecia, dai 61,7 del Portogallo e dagli 80,6 della Spagna, paesi mediterranei come il nostro (dati 2004, fonte Assobirra).
Al di là dei numeri, però, il vero problema italiano è sempre stato in un’enorme lacuna culturale: la birra è sempre stata vista secondo il triste luogo comune che la indentifica con una bevanda bionda, leggermente amarognola e abbondantemente gasata, da servire preferibilmente ghiacciata. Fino ad una decina di anni fa, nemmeno si immaginava qualcosa di diverso. I pochi birrifici industriali attivi si sono quindi adeguati a questo cliché (o, forse, ne sono stati causa) producendo soltanto lager (birre a bassa fermentazione) decisamente anonime. Fanno parziale eccezione la Pedavena, in provincia di Belluno, la Menabrea di Biella e soprattutto la Forst di Lagundo, vicino a Merano, che ha sempre messo la qualità dei suoi prodotti al primo posto (ad esempio, tutte le birre in fusto non sono pastorizzate); ma rimangono purtroppo casi isolati nello sconfortante panorama industriale italiano.

Molto è cambiato
Tutto questo è stato fino a 10 anni fa, quando è esploso il fenomeno dei birrifici artigianali; precedentemente c’erano state alcune esperienze, ma si trattava di casi assai isolati: citiamo St. Josef di Corrado Esposito, aperto a Sorrento nel 1983, Birra Dolomiti (ora Montevecchio) di Adis Scopel, attivo dal 1993 in Sardegna, Orabräu (chiuso nel 1994) dei fratelli Oradini ad Arco, sul lago di Garda, Aramini (chiuso nel 1996) a Vaglio Serra, in provincia di Asti. Dopo il 1996, invece, la crescita numerica dei birrifici diventa sempre più importante, grazie anche a un cambiamento normativo, con la pubblicazione di un «Testo unico delle disposizioni legislative concernenti le imposte sulla produzione e sui consumi e relative sanzioni penali e amministrative» (D.L. 26 ottobre 1995, n. 504), che elimina l’obbligo della presenza di un funzionario dell’Ufficio tecnico finanza a ogni produzione e la pratica di piombatura dell’impianto dopo ogni cotta. In realtà ancora oggi l’iter burocratico che i birrai devono affrontare è complesso, illogico e dal sapore vagamente medievale.
Nel giro di pochi mesi, tra il 1995 e il 1996 nascono, senza conoscersi tra loro, diversi birrifici, quasi tutti ancora oggi attivi: Baladin a Piozzo (Cn), Beba a Villar Perosa (To), Befed ad Aviano (Pn), Birrificio italiano a Lurago Marinone (Co), Busalla a Savignone (Ge), Centrale della birra a Cremona, Circolo 50 a Campi Bisenzio (Fi), Lambrate a Milano, Greiter a Merano (Bz), Mastro birraio a San Giovanni al Natisone (Ud), Norton a Rimini, St. Johannes Brau a San Giovanni di Casarsa (Pn), Titanic a Lamezia Terme (Cz), Turbacci a Roma. I nuovi mastri birrai si conoscono spesso per caso, ad esempio attraverso gli stessi fornitori di materie prime e attrezzature: basterà attendere il 1997 per vedere nascere Unionbirrai, associazione di categoria che ha fatto molto, in questi anni, per promuovere la cultura della birra artigianale.
In 10 anni moltissimo è cambiato, sia quantitativamente sia qualitativamente e si è abbondantemente superato il numero di 150 birrifici (ottimamente recensiti da Lelio Bottero, nel suo La birra artigianale, guida ai microbirrifici italiani, Gribaudo, 2005). Purtroppo, a un così notevole incremento numerico non è seguita, almeno non per tutti, un’analoga crescita qualitativa; rimangono molti i birrifici che hanno fiutato il business e non hanno messo la passione e la conoscenza della birra al centro dell’attenzione. Sono ancora troppi, infatti, i birrifici artigianali in cui le birre sono presentate male, servite troppo fredde o non in condizioni accettabili: ho visto personalmente un brew pub presentare le birre sul menù come “bionda”, “rossa”, “nera”, senza alcuna altra indicazione (c’era, però, il prezzo…), nemmeno i gradi alcolici! È vero che, in ogni caso, si tratta di birre non pastorizzate, vive, prodotte in loco, ma credo che la scarsa professionalità sia un danno per tutto il movimento: trovo decisamente controproducente che un artigiano che dedica fatica, tempo e denaro alla sua attività non sia poi in grado di servire, nel modo più corretto possibile, un prodotto che sia organoletticamente valido.
Per fortuna, però, la maggior parte dei birrai lavora con sapienza e passione e oggi abbiamo molte birre davvero interessanti; il fenomeno è ormai esploso e alcuni dei nostri birrai più capaci esportano regolarmente all’estero, negli Stati Uniti, in Russia, in Giappone. Nell’ultima edizione del Great British Beer Festival (la più importante manifestazione birraria del Regno Unito) sono state presentate ben otto birre artigianali italiane, che nonostante il prezzo proibitivo di sette sterline a bottiglia, sono andate a ruba: i giornalisti e gli esperti hanno capito che il fenomeno italiano va seguìto con molta attenzione e sono colpiti dalla bravura e dalla fantasia dei nostri birrai.

Vince la fantasia
Proprio la fantasia è il punto centrale, la nostra carta vincente. Come si diceva, l’Italia non ha mai avuto una grande cultura della birra, con due conseguenti effetti, del tutto opposti. Da un lato i primi birrai si sono ritrovati a muoversi in assenza di informazioni e con un mercato poco ricettivo. Dall’altro lato, però, questa “verginità” ha presentato molti aspetti positivi: intanto la curiosità che ogni nuovo birrificio artigianale solleva e poi la mancanza del riferimento oppressivo di tradizioni secolari, proprie dei paesi di grande tradizione birraria; mentre in Baviera un birraio non può non produrre gli stili tradizionali (hell, pils, bock, weizen…), il birraio italiano è molto più libero di inventare e può proporre birre decisamente più originali. In effetti in una prima fase quasi tutti i birrai si sono ispirati, più o meno direttamente, agli stili classici: chi alla scuola tedesca, chi alla scuola belga (blanche, saison, abbaye…), chi ancora a quella anglosassone (bitter, porter, stout…); ben presto, però, i nostri artigiani hanno saputo andare oltre, con grande inventiva, accompagnata sempre dalla necessaria padronanza della tecnica. In ogni caso, quindi, producendo birre di grande equilibrio, corrette, che non cadono mai nelle facili esagerazioni. Oggi abbiamo birre prodotte con grano kamut, mirra e zenzero, oppure con spezie himalayane, altre con il chinotto di Savona (Presidio Slow Food), altre aromatizzate con i mirtilli, oppure con aggiunta di miele di corbezzolo, birre spumanti al ribes nero, o ancora birre scure e affumicate, birre acidule maturate in botti di legno, oppure fermentate con lieviti da whisky, e si potrebbe continuare ancora a lungo. Vanno citate, infine, le molte birre prodotte con l’aggiunta di castagne, che stanno dando origine a una vera e propria tipologia nazionale, molto apprezzata anche all’estero.
Uno dei risultati più importanti, al di là della qualità delle birre, evidentemente fondamentale, è l’avere iniziato un processo di rottura dei luoghi comuni legati alla birra; si trovano sempre più spesso birre servite alla temperatura, nel modo e nel bicchiere giusti, si inizia a trovare la carta delle birre accanto alla carta dei vini nei grandi ristoranti, sempre di più si parla di abbinamenti tra la birra e il cibo. In questi 10 anni la cultura della birra in Italia è molto cresciuta, anche grazie a moltissime serate di degustazione, cene con abbinamenti birra-cibo, corsi di cultura birraria, manifestazioni legate alle birre artigianali. Sono sorte, infine, diverse associazioni di appassionati, instancabili organizzatrici di eventi, degustazioni, viaggi.
Slow Food, dal canto suo, ha immediatamente capito la portata del fenomeno, promuovendo con convinzione la diffusione della cultura birraria: lo ha fatto principalmente attraverso due strumenti: i Master of Food, che dal 1999 promuovono l’educazione al gusto e il cui corso di birra è uno dei più gettonati e le grandi manifestazioni, Salone del Gusto, Cheese, Slow Fish, dove non sono mai mancati i Laboratori del Gusto a tema birra o con le birre in abbinamento. In particolare, al Salone del Gusto, c’è sempre almeno un laboratorio dedicato alle birre artigianali italiane: ovviamente è uno dei primi ad andare esaurito.

Scelti per voi

Baladin
Produzione e mescita
Piazza V Luglio, 15 – Piozzo (Cn)
www.birreria.com
Sicuramente il più conosciuto e apprezzato, non solo in Italia: vende con successo negli Stati Uniti, in Russia, in Giappone… Imprescindibili le sei birre in bottiglia, tutte ad alta fermentazione e tutte rifermentate in bottiglia: Isaac, una delicata blanche, prodotta con aggiunta di frumento locale e speziata con coriandolo e scorza d’arancia; Wayan, un’intrigante saison con cinque diversi cereali e ben nove spezie; Nora, esotica, dedicata alla cultura birraria dell’antico Egitto, prodotta con grano kamut, zenzero e mirra; Super Baladin, la più nota, ambrata potente e fruttata; Nöel Baladin, scura, perfetta per gli abbinamenti con i cru di cacao; Elixir Baladin, la più alcolica, fermentata con lieviti da whisky. Molto interessanti anche le tante sperimentazioni di Teo Musso, tra cui gli invecchiamenti in bottiglia e le maturazioni che sfruttano i processi ossidativi.

Barchessa di Villa Pola
Produzione e mescita
Via Batt. S. Pomini, 3 – Barcon di Vedelago (Tv)
www.villapola.com
Il birrificio, situato in una solenne barchessa settecentesca, è guidato da Paolo de Martin, già noto agli appassionati come uno dei birrai dei Soci dea Bira di Cavaso del Tomba. A Villa Pola produce una gamma di birre molto corrette e decisamente ispirate alla tradizione germanica, quindi prevalentemente a bassa fermentazione: Pola Hell, chiara e leggera, Pola Pils, più secca e luppolata, Biancaluna, classica weizen in stile bavarese, Dunbock, una dunkel bock decisamente maltata, Soci’s Schwarz, scura che già nelle feste dei Soci aveva molto impressionato, per chiudere con la Monfenera, ambrata prodotta con aggiunta di castagne.

Beba
Produzione e mescita
Viale Italia, 11 – Villar Perosa (To)
www.birrabeba.it
I fratelli Alessandro ed Enrico Borio, pionieri del movimento artigianale italiano, producono birre a bassa fermentazione, che si possono assaggiare nel locale di mescita annesso al birrificio, il Train Robber Syndacate. Le birre fisse sono sei: due chiare, due ambrate e due scure. Le chiare sono la Nr.1, leggera e ben luppolata e la Molto Malto, decisamente più forte e abboccata. Le ambrate sono la Gilda, morbida e beverina e la Toro, alcolica e complessa. Chiudono le due scure: Grafite, meno alcolica e la Motor Oil, dagli intensi sentori di torrefazione. Infine vanno citate le stagionali, tutte molto piacevoli: Re Magi, Natale, Talco.


Bi-Du
Produzione e mescita
Via Confine, 26 – Rodero (Co)
www.bi-du.it
Antico nome di una tipologia di birra sumera, per gli estimatori Bi-Du è il nome di uno dei brew pub italiani più apprezzati. Situato vicinissimo al confine con la Svizzera, offre una gamma completa di eccellenti birre, principalmente ad alta fermentazione. Sempre disponibili sono la stupenda Rodersch, beverina e secca kölsch e la luppolata ArtigianAle, prima classificata al concorso “Birra dell’anno” di Artebirra 2005. Secondo la stagione potete poi assaggiare la Confine, impegnativa porter, la bianca Remedios, la scura Jehol, l’estiva Du Bi-Du, la San Maffeo, a bassa fermentazione, la forte Xtrem, la rossa Buena Suerte, la Black Mamba, con avena, la Ley Line, con miele di corbezzolo. Ma sicuramente l’estroso birraio, Giuseppe Vento, ha in serbo altre novità.


Birra del borgo
Solo produzione
Via del Colle Rosso – Borgorose (Ri)
www.birradelborgo.it
La passione e la competenza di Leonardo di Vincenzo hanno già saputo portare questo birrificio, aperto soltanto nel maggio del 2005, tra i grandi d’Italia. La fama delle birre prodotte nello sperduto paesino di Borgorose ha già abbondantemente superato i confini nazionali, essendo note e apprezzate in Danimarca, in Inghilterra e negli Stati Uniti. Leonardo produce birre ad alta fermentazione, rifermentate in bottiglia, tutte caratterizzate da grande eleganza. Si parte con la luppolata Re Ale, seconda classificata al concorso “Birra dell’anno” di Artebirra 2005, per seguire con la Duchessa, prodotta col farro locale, per passare alla fruttata Duc Ale e concludere con la tostata Re Porter. In stagione, potete trovare la deliziosa CastagnAle, alle castagne, la Cortigiana, estiva e luppolata, per finire con le ultime creazioni: la potente e natalizia 25 Dodici e i due esperimenti di birre al tabacco, Ke.To. Re Ale e la Ke.To. Re Porter – dove Ke.To. sta per Kentucky Toscano. Si possono trovare alla spina, in alcuni selezionati locali (tra cui il Ma che siete venuti a fa’ di Trastevere, Roma), oppure in bottiglia nei migliori beer shop.

Birrificio italiano
Produzione e mescita
Via Castello, 51 – Lurago Marinone (Co)
www.birrificio.it
Giustamente considerato uno dei guru della birra artigianale italiana, Agostino Arioli produce un’articolata gamma di birre molto interessanti, sia ad alta sia a bassa fermentazione. Sempre disponibili alla spina sono la Tipopils, una pils da innamoramento, e la Bibock, interessante interpretazione delle bock. Secondo la stagionalità si possono assaggiare B.I.-Weizen, bianca in stile bavarese, ExtraHop, superluppolata, Vùdù, gradevole dunkel weizen, la scura Prima, la Cinnamon Bitter Ale, prima real ale italiana, la profumatissima Fleurette, seconda classificata nel concorso “Birra in stile originale” ad Artebirra 2005. Da non perdere, infine, la gamma di birre in bottiglia, tra cui la Amber Shock, potente ambrata, la Cassisona, birra spumante aromatizzata con Ribes nero e la Scires, prodotta con aggiunta di duroni di Vignola e fermentata con tre ceppi di lievito (tra cui una “madre” del 1999).

Cittavecchia
Solo produzione
Località Prosecco Stazione – Sgonico (Ts)
www.cittavecchia.com
Nel 1999 Michele Barro decide di trasformare la passione per la birra e l’esperienza maturata da home brewer in attività lavorativa. Nel birrificio Cittavecchia produce birre sia a bassa sia ad alta fermentazione, con diffusione regionale e nazionale. La più apprezzata è la Chiara, leggera e moderatamente luppolata, ma non da meno sono la fresca Weizen, di frumento, la ambrata e leggera Rossa, la forte Formidable, la speziata San Nicolò. Le birre si possono trovare, alla spina, in ristoranti e pub della zona di Trieste, in bottiglia nei migliori beer shop nazionali.

Grado plato
Produzione e mescita
Viale Fasano, 36 b – Chieri (To)
www.gradoplato.it
Grande appassionato e instancabile ricercatore, Sergio Ormea mette grande competenza nelle sue birre, prodotte sia ad alta sia a bassa fermentazione. Sempre disponibili nel locale di mescita la Sveva, chiara a bassa fermentazione, la Spoon River, ambrata ad alta e la Melissa, al miele. Moltissime, e in continua evoluzione, le stagionali: Mica, di frumento, Kölscher, ispirata alle birre di Colonia, Strada S. Felice, alle castagne, Eveline, interpretazione delle outmeal stout irlandesi, Jack delle nuvole, in stile bitter inglese, Märzen, ispirata alle birre dell’Oktoberfest. Per finire va sottolineato il progetto “Birra di Chieri”. In collaborazione con il locale istituto agrario sono stati messi a dimora l’orzo e il luppolo; l’orzo è stato poi raccolto, maltato e utilizzato per la produzione della Sticher, scura ad alta fermentazione, ispirata alla Stiche di Düsseldorf. La birra ha avuto grande successo e tutti gli appassionati aspettano con ansia la seconda annata, in cui sarà utilizzato anche il luppolo locale.

Lambrate
Produzione e mescita
Via Adelchi 5, Milano
www.birrificiolambrate.com
Vivace locale nel quartiere milanese di Lambrate, merita la visita sia per l’atmosfera unica, specie durante l’aperitivo, sia per la qualità delle birre. Il birraio Fabio Brocca cura la produzione assieme ai fratelli Davide e Giampaolo Sangiorgi, che si occupano anche del locale. Le birre, tutte ad alta fermentazione, sono battezzate con nomi molto “milanesi”: l’ottima Montestella, secca e luppolata, la scura affumicata Ghisa, la chiara e forte Sant’Ambroeus, le ambrate Porpora, meno alcolica, e Lambrate, più forte, le stagionali Domm, di frumento in stile bavarese e Brighella, natalizia. Tutte le birre, ottimamente spillate nel brew pub di via Adelchi, si possono trovare in fusto anche in altri locali milanesi e non, mentre la produzione in bottiglia è stata avviata recentemente.

Lurisia
Solo produzione
c/o birrificio Baladin
Nuovo progetto di Teo Musso, sviluppato attorno all’eccellente qualità dell’acqua di Lurisia. La prima parte del progetto, che prevederà poi anche acque e bevande analcoliche, è rappresentata da due nuove birre, prodotte a Piozzo presso il birrificio Baladin, utilizzando l’acqua Lurisia. Le birre, entrambe ad alta fermentazione e rifermentate in bottiglia, sono chiamate, secondo un’antica tradizione belga, semplicemente con un numero; sono prodotte con malto d’orzo italiano, grano saraceno del Monregalese e speziate con un ingrediente segreto. La 6 è leggera, ma molto profumata, può ricordare una blanche, mentre la 10 è decisamente più alcolica, complessa, impegnativa. Entrambe sono disponibili soltanto in bottiglie da 75 cl: la commercializzazione è iniziata da poco e ha carattere nazionale.

Montegioco
Solo produzione
Frazione Fabbrica, 30 – Montegioco (Al)
www.birrificiomontegioco.com
Uno dei birrifici più recenti, aperto soltanto all’inizio del 2006, vanta già una notevole considerazione. Il birraio, Riccardo Franzosi, produce una gamma molto originale, con alcune birre decisamente estreme. Come da tradizione alcune sono stagionali, mentre tre sono disponibili tutto l’anno: la Runa, chiara e leggera, la Ratweizen, di frumento e la Demonhunter, ambrata forte e alcolica. Tra le stagionali, invece, la Runa bianca, di frumento, la Runa forte, la Mac Runa, la Quarta Runa, alle pesche, la Bastarnà, alle caldarroste, la Bran e la Draco, aromatizzata ai mirtilli. Le birre, principalmente prodotte in bottiglia, si possono trovare in alcuni ristoranti della zona e nei migliori beer shop nazionali.

Torrechiara
Solo produzione
Strada Pilastro, 35 – Torrechiara (Pr)
www.panilbeer.com
Renzo Losi è figlio di un produttore di vino e il suo birrificio sorge proprio accanto all’azienda vinicola del padre; naturale che per alcune birre si utilizzino tecniche di maturazione in botte mutuate dal mondo del vino. Non solo birre vinose, però: compongono la gamma la Panil Blanche, fresca e speziata birra di frumento, la Panil Ambre, ambrata rifermentata in bottiglia, la Panil Brune, scura e maltata, la Panil Enhanced, forte strong ale e la Black Oak, prodotta interamente in legno. Ultima nata è la Panil Bionda, pensata per essere la birra quotidiana. Il cavallo di battaglia del birrificio, però, è la Panil Barriquée, nelle due versioni mild e sour. Entrambe maturate in botti di quercia, si differenziano per la durata del passaggio in legno e quindi per il grado d’acidità. La Barriquée Sour ha creato un vero e proprio caso negli Stati Uniti, ottenendo consensi a dir poco entusiastici e una notorietà davvero impressionante.

Troll
Produzione e mescita
Strada Valle Grande, 15 – Vernante (Cn)
www.birratroll.it
Il birrificio Troll offre una gamma di birre molto originali, che in poco tempo hanno saputo conquistare un grande numero di appassionati. Il birraio, Daniele Meinero, produce birra ad alta fermentazione, con un interessante uso di spezie e materie prime non convenzionali. Disponibili durante tutto l’anno sono la Dorina, bionda con leggera speziatura di lavanda, la Panada, blanche con erba limonaria, la Patela, strong ale bionda e la Shangrila, ambrata con spezie himalayane. Stagionali, invece, l’estiva e leggera Daü, ispirata alle saison vallone, l’autunnale e forte Palanfrina, alle castagne, l’invernale Stella di Natale, scura e potente, la pre-primaverile Ipa, incredibilmente luppolata e la primaverile Febbre Alta, con 16 diverse erbe officinali, primo premio al concorso “Birra in stile originale” ad Artebirra 2005. Solo in bottiglia, invece, la Shangila Fumé, prodotta con malti torbati.

92 Comments:

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07 novembre, 2009 04:09  
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Ronson-mania! Saturday night saw the kids of Mick tie one on family-style, as Mark and Samantha Ronson joined sister Charlotte at Country Club to celebrate her Spring ’09 collection. Yes, Lilo showed, along with fellow paparazzi-bait Nicole Richie and Benji Madden, and yes, super-producer Mark jumped on the decks, as did his half-brother Alexander Dexter-Jones, and yes, it was pretty much a typical night for the Ronson clan. Had family dynamics [url=http://savebigshopping.com/]coach factory outlet[/url] influenced Charlotte as a designer? “Well, this whole collection was sort of about, how does a girl who grew up going to rock shows want to dress now?” [url=http://savebigshopping.com/]coach factory outlet online[/url] she explained. “Very easy, pretty, but not precious. I wanted some of that ‘whatever’ attitude.” “Whatever” had [url=http://savebigshopping.com/]coach outlet online[/url] indeed emerged as a theme at Ronson’s show earlier that day—many of the tops and dresses had been cut and layered to [url=http://savebigshopping.com/]coach factory outlet[/url] look as if they were about to slip off. But the big slip-off happened later, as the Ronson [url=http://savebigshopping.com/]coach factory online[/url] crew packed up for yet another celebration—this time, for Mark’s belated birthday party. [url=http://savebigshopping.com/]savebigshopping.com[/url] “I didn’t get to see him on his birthday,” said Charlotte, “and I wasn’t even sure if I’d see Sam tonight, because she was maybe supposed to DJ somewhere. But I’m really happy we got to have a family night, after all.”—Maya SingerPhoto: Astrid Stawiarz/Getty Images

08 giugno, 2013 01:29  
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